Mt.Semeru The Olympus of Java (part 3 of 3)

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Sunrise at Top of Mt.Semeru

A long walk to Jambangan Point

I was all by myself again. Going on the route like this is exhausting, especially when you are alone. Luckily the path is very clear. I didn't want to get lost in the wilderness with no supply in hand. I kept praying that bad thing wont happen to me. Some places in Cemoro Kandang looked dark, due to the canopy up on the top of the trees. This add the creep in this place. I continued with 50/50 chance to reach the destination, so I thought. Sometimes the path lead me to hike up to the hills, or down to small dried rivers. Well it's normal to an adventurer like me. What's not normal is that being alone on this place.

It took approximately one hour hiking Cemoro Lawang path. At the end, we will see the Jambangan point. They say when you reach Jambangan point, means that it's already close to Kalimati. You'll know you are at Jambangan point when you see a written sign on the tree. It is rather flat route, just winding a bit. The vegetation here is also different from the one in Cemoro Kandang. The place is full of bushes here and there. Sometimes the route comes to dark big bushes full of creeping plants. It is like we're entering a cave made of plants and bushes.

But when you are out of the bushes cave, the mighty Mt.Semeru will welcome you from distance. Such a stunning view. This is all I ever wanted. A clear picture of the volcano itself with some clouds passing, on part of the top of Mt.Semeru. I also met some other hikers here, we helped each other to take pictures. I was so damn lucky.

Posing at Jambangan Point

Distance view of Mt.Semeru

Breathtaking scene from the jungle

Tree Trunk Bridge

Kalimati, the Dead River

Once again you'll find jungle similar to Cemoro Kandang, at the end of Jambangan Point. It's only 15 minutes I guess, passing this Jungle and you'll find Kalimati. If you find a bridge made of tree trunk, then you are near Kalimati. Entering Kalimati point makes me feel numb all over my body. It's cold like hell. Especially when the wind is passing by, and will be worse during the night. 

I thought I should find the group whom Dana is leading. I searched for him and his other group member by the face, though it's hard to remember. I walked the area, corner by corner, only to find a heartbreaking result. It was almost dark, impossible to get back by this time. I cannot imagine being in Cemoro Kandang at night. 

Desperate by the search, I met again this guy from Jambangan point. He told me to come following him to the Sumber Mani to get fresh water. Sumber Mani is a spring, being the only water resource to the hikers. So I followed him. The route going to the Sumber Mani is the reason they call it Kalimati literally means the dead river. It is a pathway for the lava from Mt.Semeru when it erupts, looking like river, with no flowing water, then it become The Dead River.

On my way, once again, I met Dana. Thanks God, I said. He told me where his tent is, and invited me to join his group after I finished getting the water. It was the best feeling I ever had through the journey so far. I got relieved from the burden I had all along. As if my life is saved by this coincidental meeting. I got no worry no more. At Sumber Mani I met his other group member, and we've got along quite well. So I went back to the camping ground with him. One good thing about hikers campared to other type of travelers is that, they are always friendly and very eager to help others, even though they just met somewhere in the mountain. I got to know the other members, then we talked this and that. They were really nice to me. 

Being in Kalimati camping ground was the closest point with the Volcano. You can see its top very clear. The mighty volcano and the surrounding scenery is the whole picture I ever wanted to see. There was no ambition to climb up the top, it was enough seeing Mt.Semeru from that close. We can also find the Edelweiss plants among the bushes in Kalmati. Sometimes fogs came to the area, and covered it up all over the place. Making me unable to see in distance, so was the volcano. But when it got clear, photo session with the volcano as background is a must.  

At the nearby Sumber Mani

Path to Sumber Mani

Mt.Semeru from Kalimati Camping Ground

Hikers in Foggy Land

Evening with the Hikers

With Dana the Savior

Land Above the Sky

Some of the group members planed to hike the top of Mt.Semeru. Dana, on the other hand, was deciding whether to join them or to stay at the camp. I was full of desire to join them too, and some of them encourage me to do so. But my clothing at the time didn't allow me to do that. I didn't prepare myself for such effort, hiking the top of Semeru. My jacket was very thin made of thin cloth, and I didn't carry anything else but my sleeping bed. So I decided not to go. I couldn't imagine how cold is up there, if Kalimati is already this cold. So I let one of them carry my pocket camera to get great pictures from the top, and he did.

At night, the Kalimati camping ground was very cold. One guy said it was -4' Celsius. We could only be around the fire we made earlier covered in sleeping bed to get warmth. One other good thing here is that, we can see the stars clearly. Such a beautiful night I had. There was only one disturbance from other tent in distance. We heard a girl screaming out loud. She screamed like she saw a Ghost there. The guy near me said that she is being possessed by other being. It is common believe to Indonesian in places like this, is a home to spiritual beings, so that we don't do anything bad here. If not, bad thing happen to us.

They say that being up on the top of Mt.Semeru, is like being in heaven. They call it "Negeri di atas Awan" meaning land above the sky. Coz from up there you'll see the sea of clouds covering lower part of the mountain as far as the eyes can see. It stunning I would say, though I haven't experienced it myself. The pictures they brought back were the proof of that statement. While I could only see them lining up carrying headlamps. The sunrise considered as one of the most beautiful in the world. They got lucky as the sky was clear. So the sunrise they capturing was amazing. I, on the other hand, had a very good sleep, coz I could use all the sleeping bed they left behind.

Stunning Colors at Sunrise

Truly the Land Above the Sky

Surrounding Mountainous Area of Bromo Tengger Semeru national Park

Such Stunning Picture

The Golden Sunrise

This what we call "The Endless Beauty"

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Mt.Semeru The Olympus of Java (part 2 of 3)

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Hikers at the Oro-oro Ombo

The New Friends, or I would say The Saviors

The time I arrived at Ranu Kumbolo lake, it was already crowded with tents. Many kept coming to the camping ground and set up their tents. So exhausted with the journey, I laid my body down near the lake while waiting my friends to come. There I met a guy named Dana. It has become my habit that I talked to any person near me during my trip. Just a light chat would suffice, only to get rid of loneliness when I travel alone. Sometimes I don't even know their name, just remembering the face would be enough, coz I wouldn't think we would meet again.

But, this time is different, a funny story I would say. At first, it was just a one time chat and a little bit introduction of ourselves, normal. Things got different when among hundreds of hikers and campers, I met the same guy for at least three times, coincidentally. It's like we're destined to be together haha. No, I'm just kidding. Anyway, this one guy I met and his group, turn out to be Savior in my next story of hiking Semeru.

Oro-oro Ombo, the Vast Wild Savanna

The second day, many hikers continued their journey to the next spot called Kalimati. I was so eager to join them. But my friends didn't like the idea, they had bad experience in the past. Only then, they let me go. They remind me to get back on the evening, I agreed. I depart as soon as I got ready with the stuff I will carry. I didn't plan to stay overnight at Kalimati, that's why I only carry my sleeping bed, but not my tent.

Tanjakan Cinta is the first obstacle I had to go through, not to steep though. Only that, I had to be in line with others. As I said, hundreds of hikers continued their way in the same day, same hour. At top of Tanjakan Cinta, I enjoyed for quite sometime the stunning Ranu Kumbolo. Such a peaceful place. When I continued, I got another beautiful scene a head of me. It's Oro-oro Ombo, a vast prairie filled with purple wild flowers, turned out to be an invading species that originated elsewhere. So that, original species was losing the territory.

For me, it doesn't matter where the flowers come from. As long as it looks good, that's enough. The hills surrounding this vast savanna are filled with green forest. The sun shine brightly, makes the picture even more perfect. Ah, I can stay here for as long as I can. Just to enjoy the scenery and drink a cup of coffee. Such a perfect place with a perfect scene. For a second I thought, this look like those scene in Bollywood movies where the actor and the actress start to sing with their weird dance in a middle of a Savanna filled with colorful flowers. Yes, it looks like Kashmir valley in India.

Unfortunately, there are some spots on the prairie, where the man-tall plants crumple. This make me sad, those amateur hikers, when they tried to get a good angle for their photos, they break down the plants by stepping their feet on them. Also those who tried to make new route or shortcuts, such a dumb move. I think, the rangers should do something to stop this damage created by those irresponsible hikers.

Seeing many other hikers around, I forgot that I was in the wild. I heard that sometimes a leopard or a puma is seen hunting their prey on this prairie. For sure, human cannot see one if they are in hunt. The thick purple flower plant is as high as a grown up man. I wonder if there was any incident involving wild animals around here. Today is an exceptional I guess, the crowed may scare the wild away. But, what if there's a predator around?

So I woke up from my daydreaming about the dancing Bollywood movie and the leopard hunt. I had to continue my journey. My friend said it would take two hours. But, looking at the crowd and the energy I have from my breakfast earlier, I would say it will take longer. Despite, I want to enjoy being in the wild. Only that, I had nobody to talk to. It's okay, I'll be with myself for the next three hours. I guess!

Looking like Kashmir Valley

Oro-oro Ombo Far View

Invasive Purple Flower

Would you dance here?

First Step at Oro-oro Ombo

The Second Meeting in Cemoro Kandang

Walking at the Oro-oro Ombo for about 1,5 km is not that hard for me, coz the road is flat. The challenge came when we reach Cemoro Kandang, it's the next hiking route where we can see different vegetation. It's a jungle with less density of big trees. The road itself started to be steep. But not too steep, so it's fine by me. In the middle of my way at Cemoro Kandang, I met Dana, again. Here the chat became more intense, he offered me help when we reach Kalimati point later. I wouldn't say no of course. At this time, we introduced our name to each other, so that we won't be stranger again in the future. Cause help is all I need later on. 

So he continue the walk a head of me and become too far a head, I couldn't catch him up. I guess he's an experienced hiker. I, on the other hand, make a stop for many times. My legs got really exhausted, I can see that the journey is longer than I expected. I found myself get passed by many other hikers, as if I was at the end of the line. No, I won't give up, I had to continue the journey. Until I reach the destination. Kalimati I'm coming!

Scenery at Cemoro Kandang

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Mt.Semeru The Olympus of Java (part 1 of 3)

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Top of Mt.Semeru

The Folklore Narrative

Once upon a time, The Gods of heaven decided to create an Island on the vast ocean. This Island they called Java. The island was created beautifully, considered as one of the most beautiful creation of all. It has many magical creatures in it, that no other places have. The river run long from the upstream to the sea, jungles and forests grew among these rivers. The inhabitants live peacefully, they live like there never threat comes upon them. Savanna, valley, waterfall and many other magnificent landscape you could ever imagine exist on this very Island. Because the island is the reflection of Heaven itself, where Gods and Goddesses live.

There was only one problem prior to its creation. The Island is floating free on the ocean. This makes everything in it shaken and unbalance. So the Gods were planning to nail the Island with a mountain. They decided to nail Java with Mount Meru in India. As the Gods carried Mount Meru in the air, part of the mountain crumbled. These collapses created the mountain range on Java Island from west to the east. The top of Mount Meru itself fell apart and become Mount Pawitra (Penanggungan), another beautiful smaller cone shape volcano in East Java. So the Gods put Mount Meru on the eastern part of the Island to nail and balance Java. It is now called Mount Semeru.

Until now, some Javanese and Hindu people in Bali still believe that on top of Mt.Semeru is where Gods reside in. They do ceremonials and rituals on the Balinese Hindu Temple located on the slope of Mt.Semeru once in a while. This to worships Gods and asking for the blessing on their live.

Location of Mt.Semeru on Java Island

Mount Semeru Today

As the highest point in Java (3676-asl), Mt.Semeru has become one of favourite mountain to hike for Indonesian hikers. And since the movie with the title "5 cm", a movie about the trip of 5 best friends hiking Mt.Semeru, released, many more hikers hiked the top of Semeru. It was then became popular among Indonesian kids, hiking Mt.Semeru was never for professional hikers again. Even middle school kids did that.

The journey to Mt.Semeru, especially when you aim the top, takes about 4 or 5 days. The top has not always the goal for the hikers, many spots we can enjoy along the way. It was in 2013 when me and my high-school fellas planned for Ranu Kumbolo, a stunning lake on Mt.Semeru area. As the date was set, we depart from Surabaya City in the middle of the night. The route was going to be Surabaya-Malang (Arjosari bus station), Malang - Tumpang (nearest point using public transport), then from Tumpang point we ride big truck to Ranupani. Going to Ranu Pani we could see picturesque of Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park. Lush jungle with the loud noises of its Tonggeret insect, and beautiful landscape of Mt.Bromo along the way. Has become great attractions on our journey.

Ranu Pani is the last point before continue hiking and considered as one of the highest village in Indonesia (2100-asl), located as part of the Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park (TNBTS). Ranu means Lake in local language. So its name is based on the lake of Pani located nearby the village. It is a beautiful place I would say, the area is full of green forest and villager's vegetable farms. The lake itself is a quite and peaceful place, it is good to live in such place for sometimes. Say to escape from the crowd and busy big city we live in.

Welcome to Ranu Pani

Breathtaking View

Fern trees along the way

Trees covered in Moss

Taking a break

First glimpse of Lake Ranu Kumbolo

Journey to Heavenly Lake Ranu Kumbolo

Once we reached Ranu Pani, we then continue the journey in about 4 to 5 hours walk. That is why we started the journey in the middle of the night, so that we could start walking in the morning. To do this, we had to exercise our body before we decide to go hiking. If not, there should be trouble on our way. Especially to our legs, this because walking on such road takes large amount of energy. Things could be complicated when we exhausted along the way. So, well preparation prior the journey is a must. What we need the most are water and snacks to regain energy and freshness.

We are now in the middle of nowhere, once you enter the path, there's no way back. Luckily the pathway is in good condition. We walked up and down the hills, sometimes on the ridge with deep chasms on both sides. Some places were full of big trees covered in moss on its trunks, and the canopy of this primer jungle evaded us from the sunlight. It is beautiful in a scary way. 

There is one spot where many fern trees grow everywhere, as if we are in Jurassic World. Fern is considered as ancient tree. The tree is a surviving tree from Jurassic era when Dinosaurs roam the earth. Some of them are as tall as coconut tree. This peculiar tree only grow in high altitude such  as mountain range. You can find this tree across Indonesia, as far as in Sudirman mountain range in Papua. The species that is found in Papua even more ancient than this one, since it is a very remote area where no human inhibit the region.

There are four respective resting posts in our journey to Ranu Kumbolo lake, these posts are for us to rest during the walk. If the sun has already set, we can set camp here, for the posts are built in less dangerous areas. The most challenging path is the one after the third post, it is very steep that we had to climb uphill for about 100 meters. So exhausting and energy draining. Next road will be easier and already close to destination.

From the fourth post, we can see Ranu Kumbolo lake in far view. It is breathtaking as far as the eyes can see. Only one more step to reach the heavenly lake of Ranu Kumbolo. The lake is surrounded by hills in all direction. The common camping ground is the one nearby the "Tanjakan Cinta" literally mean love steep, a steep path to low hill going to the magnificent prairie, Oro-oro Ombo.

Ranu Kumbolo is where the hikers stay for a night before continuing the journey on the next day. It offers a breathtaking view, the hills around protect the area from destructive wind and other natural disasters. The lake is so calm, and deep in the center. The "V" shape in between hills as background of the lake offers stunning panorama during sunsets and sunrises. At dawn, the surface of this calm water are fogging. The haze walks through the water, triggers mystical ambiance to emerge. There's nowhere else can bring such feeling. Cold and silent, like the atmosphere we see in Silent Hill.

At night, sometimes, the temperature could drop below zero degree Celsius. The air is freezing and the grass covered in frozen dew. It looks white all over the place. If you are lucky to get clear sky during your visit, you can enjoy milky way in the sky. It is something we cannot get in cities. Such a romantic scene to see the stars at night with our love ones. 

Ranu Kumbolo from Post 4

Piece of Paradise

Relax at top of Tanjakan Cinta

Camping Ground at Ranu Kumbolo

Mystical Dawn

Majestic evening at Ranu Kumbolo

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Baluran in Different Frame

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View from Tanjung Bilik, Baluran National Park

A Lifetime Adventure

This truly is an unforgettable journey of my own. How could it not? me and my friend, for the first time, ride a motorbike for a distance as far as 195 km. Moreover, we penetrated a narrow yet bumpy road in the middle of Baluran's wilderness, which was too my first time.

The Journey was inspired by an article from NatGeo Traveler magz Februari 2015 edition, telling a bit more than we know about Baluran National Park a.k.a a slice of Africa in Java. It shows a map of the National Park, which I found that there is another route in exploring Baluran which is different than the one I knew all along.

Baluran at NatGeo Traveler

NatGeo

I know not why it took me a year to write about this journey, which I place as one of my top travel stories. Maybe a year ago I wasn't sure of telling my story in English, I was afraid that my readers wouldn't get what I'm telling them, since my English writing skill was below average, as it is now.

A 7 hours ride marks the beginning of my journey from Surabaya to Situbondo Regency in the eastern tip of Java Island. A long and exhausting trip that started in midnight 29th of May 2016. I always choose midnight time for such journey, it gives us ease of travel since there will be less cars on the road and we can enjoy the destination earlier on the next day. But it didn't happen this time, coz we still had to take another narrow and ugly bumpy road to reach the destination in Baluran National Park.

Before troubles come

Ugly Road

Before entering the National Park

On The Road

As I said before, the path we took is different from the normal route we commonly take. If the normal route start from Batang Village on the western part. This time we had to take the left turn in the last village road before entering the National Park area. Some locals, with motorbike, took the same path too. I never knew that the same road has been explored by the locals from long ago. Sometimes they catch us a head in undoubtedly riding skill going through ugly bumpy road in the middle of the jungle. Me, on the other hand, had to struggle badly on this particular road. A lot of big rocks on both side of the road, as if I'm in the middle of drag race. I had to stop once at a time as I crash those rocks. what can I say, I'm an unskilled motorbike rider.

As we go through deeper in the National Park, the scenery is so satisfying. Most of it were savannas with some trees in irregular positions. Some savanna has a chest tall grasses. I never knew when the journey would ending as I go deeper in the dense jungle. I was blind too, not knowing where exactly my destination is or how far we had to take this bumpy road. Sometimes I asked those who passed me by whether the destination is already close or still far away from my spot.

Savanna

View in National Park

The name's Tanjung Bilik. A relatively small peninsula on the north of Baluran National Park. I was so eager to see the same scene as pictured in the magz, so wild and natural. Once the road turned from gravel road into soils, I imagined we already near to the destination, and so the locals said. We found a beach on our way, then continue to presumed to be the Tanjung Bilik Peninsula area. But, the further we go, the more confused we've got. Until we reached a village.

A Filthful Place

Yes you heard it right, a village, in the middle of nowhere. "How could people settle down in the place like this?" I thought. So I continue exploring the village, hoping that I will find someone to ask about the destination. Luckily, I met the same person we encountered before. I forgot his name. He works for Forestry Department and was visiting his relatives in that Village, namely Merak village. He offered me to rest and freshening up, I wouldn't say no. As we talked, he would take me to the location we wanted to reach. 

Livestock Fence

In Village

One thing I have to tell you about this village. Its road is made of piles of livestock's shit, literally. I found this when I stopped my motorbike in front of the local's house. I, accidentally, stepped on the fresh cow's shit as I get down from my bike. OMG, it's horrible, it even on my bike. So I had to clean it up. Then the guy told me that each of the villagers have livestock on their own. They will take the livestock out to the savanna every morning, so that they can eat the grass. By evening, they will take back the livestock to the cages in front of their houses which only made of wooden fence just before the beach. I couldn't imagine how the road will be full of shit dust as the livestock moving.

The Beach,  The Jungle and  The Volcano

At about 03.00 pm, we departed. This time we were heading the right direction, lead by this man and his wife. We found a nice quite beach to settle our tent, and some locals were there too to fish. The view is jaw dropping. Here we can see Mount Baluran from the unusual angle. Just below it, a dense jungle and the sea lies in the same frame. Such a beauty I rarely encountered. Unfortunately, as the sun goes down, the water level is getting lower and lower. But, it didn't stop me to explore the shallow water and enjoy the sunset.

Mt.Baluran

Cloudy Day

Sunset

I made dinner which is the combination of rice, eggs and instant noodle. A typical Indonesian Campers food. Only that, my friend did not have appetite to eat dinner. He said he was too afraid of being in the middle of the jungle alone. I said not to worry, things are going to be fine. Let's just spend a night here and enjoy some more tomorrow. I planned to stay for two night, but He refused.

The next morning, we woke up in a very refreshed mind. We spent sometimes on the beach taking more pictures before heading back to civilization. I found an octopus as I explore the shallow water on the beach. The sun shine so brightly, adding the beauty of the beach even more. This is the peculiar beauty I ever wanted. So I said to myself "Mission Accomplished".

We moved back at around 09.00 am in the morning. Another bumpy road ahead, it took 2 hours to reach the main road, one hour less than the day before. We continued our journey to Banyuwangi Regency and stay overnight at homestay in Ketapang, nearby the Seaport for the ferrys going to Bali Island.  

View from Tanjung Bilik

Natural Yard in the middle of National Park

  

Tent full of stuff

Morning Coffee

Mt.Baluran as Background

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